{"id":252489,"date":"2023-02-08T13:33:00","date_gmt":"2023-02-08T02:33:00","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.australiantraveller.com\/?p=252489"},"modified":"2023-02-13T15:19:07","modified_gmt":"2023-02-13T04:19:07","slug":"broken-hill-mosque-museum","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.australiantraveller.com\/nsw\/outback-nsw\/broken-hill\/broken-hill-mosque-museum\/","title":{"rendered":"The incredible story behind Broken Hill\u2019s tiny cameleer mosque"},"content":{"rendered":"
The astonishing story of Broken Hill\u2019s tiny cameleer mosque spans the outback, oceans and generations, as Steve Madgwick discovers.<\/h5>\n

You won\u2019t\u00a0see fleets\u00a0of grey nomads parked outside the curious brown corrugated shed at the end of a palm-flanked gravel driveway on the petering northern fringes of Broken Hill<\/a>.<\/span>\u00a0<\/span>Perhaps because the outback-spanning sagas that radiated from Broken Hill Mosque mostly fell outside the white-settler \u2018Aussie\u2019 narrative, lucky to receive even a cursory mention in our highschool history lessons.<\/span>\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

The Broken Hill Mosque Museum<\/a> is located on the <\/span>corner of Williams and Buck <\/span>streets.<\/span><\/span>\u00a0<\/span>To see inside the museum, you have to contact 82-year-old curator and caretaker Amanullah Shamroze. Bobby, as he\u2019s been called for as long as he can remember, unlocks the door and, in doing so, unshackles the story of Broken Hill\u2019s \u2018Afghan\u2019 cameleers.<\/span>\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

\"the

The mosque was built in 1891. (Image: Steve Madgwick)<\/p><\/div>\n

The son and grandson of outback-building camel drivers, Bobby\u2019s insight is rare and precious indeed. From the 1860s, the cameleers and their camels were shipped into Australia\u2019s interior from India, Afghanistan and beyond. They became the backbone of the pre-railway outback transportation network, playing under-rewarded roles in building continent-traversing projects such as the Trans-Australian Railway and the Adelaide to Darwin Overland Telegraph Line.<\/span><\/p>\n

\"the

The mosque functions as a museum. (Image: Steve Madgwick)<\/p><\/div>\n

The story behind the \u2018Afghan Mosque\u2019<\/span><\/h2>\n

The \u2018Afghan Mosque\u2019 was considered the spiritual hub of the cameleer camp that mushroomed on Broken Hill\u2019s peripheries, just as the frontier town in far-western NSW was establishing itself as a key outpost in the crossroads of outback Australia. Because the cameleers lived on the fringes of society, however, the facts of their stories have been bent and stretched by time.<\/span>\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

\u201cSome say the mosque was built in 1883, others say 1887, and I\u2019ve also heard 1891, too,\u201d says Bobby of Australia\u2019s oldest surviving \u2018Ghan-town\u2019 mosque. \u201cI\u2019m not quite sure, but it\u2019s somewhere between those figures.\u201d<\/span>\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

Outside stands a vintage camel-drawn wagon, the semitrailer of its day, which may have even hauled the mosque\u2019s corrugated iron inland from the coast. Past a small channel for ceremonial feet washing, a memorabilia-rich antechamber leads into the prayer room, with its faded mint-green pressed-metal walls, two rows of prayer mats and pair of Qurans resting on ornate wooden stands.<\/span><\/p>\n

\"the

The Prayer Room offers insights into Broken\u00a0Hill history. (Image: Steve Madgwick)<\/p><\/div>\n

Pioneer worshippers<\/h2>\n

Bobby\u2019s father, Shamroze Khan, and grandfather, Fazulla Ziadulla, worshipped here. But the rest of their wayfaring lives are hard to pin down. \u201cStrangely, Dad never ever said where he actually came from, never mentioned any family. Even my grandfather said nothing about him really.\u201d<\/span>\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

Bobby knows more about Grandpa\u2019s story. Among surviving black-and-white photographs is one showing Fazulla outside his old house in the Punjab city of (then) Campbellpur, India (which became Attock, Pakistan, after the 1947 partition). He has been told that his father and grandpa came out together to Australia, but Bobby believes they arrived on different ships.<\/span>\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

\"Bobby

Bobby (Amanullah) Shamroze shares snapshots of his storied life. (Image: Steve Madgwick)<\/p><\/div>\n

Grandpa\u2019s boat apparently docked in Fremantle<\/a>, while his father\u2019s first stop was either Port Pirie, South Australia<\/a>, or Port Albert, Victoria<\/a>. \u201cIt must have been [Dad\u2019s] first stop because he [met] his first woman down there. She was a governess, apparently, at some property. They must have got on together and took off together.\u201d<\/span>\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

Bobby\u2019s father would buy camels \u201coff the boat\u201d in Port Augusta and then walk them 400 kilometres east to Broken Hill. \u201cThere was no other way to get them there. When they were building the railway line between Port Augusta and Marree [SA], he and a team carted all the water and shifted the camps.\u201d<\/span><\/p>\n

\"an

Broken Hill is home to some of Australia\u2019s\u00a0toughest terrain. (Image: Destination NSW)<\/p><\/div>\n

His dad apparently stashed enough cash as a camel dealer to buy \u201cseven or eight houses\u201d in Broken Hill \u201cback when you could get one for 200 pounds.\u201d But Bobby didn\u2019t fare so well, especially after his mum left when he was just four. He blames his parents\u2019 split on the age difference: 62 (dad) versus 24 (mum) when Bobby was born.<\/span><\/p>\n

\u201cIt was a bit rough after Mum went. I ran away a few times. When I was seven or eight, I jumped on the train to Adelaide to look for Mum. I\u2019d been down there with my father visiting the Adelaide Mosque. You could go for a month and no one would worry about you. Not like today. And I\u2019d always have a couple of bob on me, to buy a pie or something.\u201d<\/span><\/p>\n

\"a

Emus on parade in Broken Hill. (Image: Destination NSW)<\/p><\/div>\n

The rise of cameleers in town\u00a0<\/span><\/h3>\n

Bobby bounced around for a while, sporadically staying with his mum (who he found working in a pub) and going to school in Adelaide. When his dad died in 1950, \u201cwelfare grabbed him\u201d, before a relative eventually helped Bobby return to Broken Hill. <\/span><\/p>\n

He lived with his grandfather briefly, before becoming a shearer and wool-presser out on a remote station, settling back into \u2018the Hill\u2019 in the mid-1960s with life partner Janet, lured by work in the mines.<\/span><\/p>\n

\"views

There were about 400\u00a0cameleers living in Broken Hill in the early 1900s. (Image: Destination NSW)<\/p><\/div>\n

After four decades as a place of worship, the mosque began to lose its worshippers in the late 1920s, as trains and trucks made camel transport redundant. Of the estimated 100 cameleers in town, many returned to the subcontinent, while others found work on stations, as tradesmen or in the mines (as Bobby\u2019s dad and grandpa also did).<\/span>\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

After Broken Hill\u2019s last practicing Muslim passed away, the mosque became little more than a cubbyhouse for local kids, eventually \u201crescued\u201d by the Broken Hill Historical Society<\/a> in and made into a museum a year later. Bobby agreed to be its custodian 12 years ago, under the condition that \u201cthey do a few things\u201d, such as\u2000putting up fences around the property.<\/span><\/p>\n

\"a

The Broken Hill Mosque is built on a former camel camp. (Image: Steve Madgwick)<\/p><\/div>\n

A familial connection with the mosque\u00a0<\/span><\/h2>\n

\u201cThere was no one left to do it, and I\u2019d collected a lot of information. But since then, I\u2019ve had three operations so they\u2019re worrying about me dying.\u201d Bobby\u2019s connection with the mosque has always been more familial than spiritual. \u201cI\u2019m a \u2018bush Baptist\u2019. When I was in the boys\u2019 home, I went to a different church every week. I don\u2019t even follow the language, but I\u2019m here to keep the history and try to get a bit of a name for the old camel drivers who worked this country.\u201d<\/span>\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

Bobby\u2019s brother and sister are gone now, and he\u2019s \u201coutlived\u201d his mum\u2019s family, too. He\u2019s\u2000willing to pass on the mosque responsibilities to any of his three children or seven grandchildren but \u201conly if they want to do it\u201d.<\/span>\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

For now, every time Bobby gets a call from a visitor or occasionally someone wanting to pray, the octogenarian travels the couple of kilometres from home to retell his stories, to the best of his recollection. He holds the photo of Grandpa close to him; a window into the indistinct past, and a tactile memory that might just help \u201ckeep the cameleer legacy alive for another generation.\u201d<\/span>\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

The astonishing story of Broken Hill\u2019s tiny cameleer mosque spans the outback, oceans and generations, as Steve Madgwick discovers. You won\u2019t\u00a0see fleets\u00a0of grey nomads parked outside the curious brown corrugated shed at the end of a palm-flanked gravel driveway on the petering northern fringes of Broken Hill.\u00a0Perhaps because the outback-spanning sagas that radiated from Broken […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":125,"featured_media":252514,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"article.php","format":"standard","meta":{"_expiration-date-status":"","_expiration-date":0,"_expiration-date-type":"","_expiration-date-categories":[],"_expiration-date-options":[]},"categories":[854],"tags":[1048,5388,4465,5715,5514,6438,5427],"acf":[],"yoast_head":"\nInside the Broken Hill Mosque Museum - Australian Traveller<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"The Broken Hill Mosque Museum never fails to bemuse outback travellers. 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