{"id":181661,"date":"2021-01-13T10:55:32","date_gmt":"2021-01-12T23:55:32","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.australiantraveller.com\/?p=181661"},"modified":"2023-02-17T11:29:53","modified_gmt":"2023-02-17T00:29:53","slug":"groote-eylandt-island-arnhem-land","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.australiantraveller.com\/nt\/arnhem-land\/groote-eylandt-island-arnhem-land\/","title":{"rendered":"Groote Eylandt: the island where they keep crocs as pets"},"content":{"rendered":"
On an island in the remote far reaches of the Northern Territory is a journey not only through a remarkably wild and dangerous natural world, but through thousands of years of human history. Welcome to\u00a0Groote Eylandt<\/a>.<\/h5>\n\n
\"outback

Dusk lends a delicate light
to Groote Eylandt Lodge (photo: Sean Fennessy).<\/p><\/div>\n

\u201cI reckon someone might\u2019ve gone through the fibre optics cable on their tractor.\u201d It serves me right, I suppose, for asking the big, bearded bloke pulling beers behind the bar why I can\u2019t get emails on my iPhone.<\/p>\n\n

The men all round him \u2013 knocking back ice-cold stubbies after a long day trolling for game fish \u2013 hardly look the Facebook type.<\/p>\n\n

Tall tales aren\u2019t for mates a thousand kilometres away; they\u2019re for the blokes beside you. The ones that slap your back and scream advice as you pull the big one in. The type who\u2019ll back up your bullshit stories, because they\u2019ll sure as hell want you to back up theirs.<\/p>\n\n

\u201cThe same thing happened last year.\u201d Oh, the bartender\u2019s actually serious: someone really did run over the internet on their tractor. \u201cAll of East Arnhem Land lost their signal for a week.\u201d<\/p>\n\n

The sun\u2019s setting outside, a splurge of orange and red so profound someone should be selling tickets; though nobody, of course, can post a single shot.<\/p>\n\n

Out in the mangroves and beside the rough sand beaches that skirt the Gulf of Carpentaria \u2013 just beyond the safety of my spot here on the deck of Groote Eylandt Lodge \u2013 the encroaching dark is full of creatures that would love to drag me down under all that blood-warm ocean.<\/p>\n\n

There\u2019s always been something about being in the Territory that makes me feel like I\u2019m teetering on the edge of an abyss: that if I take one wrong step, it\u2019s curtains for me.<\/p>\n\n

To anyone who reckons it takes a safari in Africa to experience ultimate adventure in the wild, I\u2019d counter: where else on the planet but the Northern Territory can you consider yourself an extreme traveller just sitting outside your room having a cup of tea in the morning?<\/p>\n

\"outback

Stay on the sand among the mangroves at the remote Groote Eylandt Lodge (photo: Sean Fennessy).<\/p><\/div>\n

I\u2019ll be spending a week here, far from the bright lights of the capital, Darwin. Where I\u2019m going \u2013 the largely unheralded Groote Eylandt, and the largely unreachable East Arnhem Land \u2013 few tourists ever venture, and so life goes on as it always has, and probably always will.<\/p>\n\n

On Groote Eylandt, they keep saltwater crocs for pets. And\u00a0why not?<\/p>\n\n

The Territory\u2019s the only place in the world where you\u2019re allowed to; and dogs and cats have a habit of disappearing round these parts. Head ranger Adrian Hogg is cradling his pet crocodile in his arms like a newborn baby.<\/p>\n\n

\u201cThey make great pets,\u201d he says, stroking its snout just above the teeth. \u201cBut they\u2019re not for everybody. Just watch them, even when they\u2019re little buggers, they bite and spin. They can strip your finger\u00a0in a second flat.\u201d<\/p>\n\n

All but 30 tourists a year who come to Groote Eylandt come to fish, this being one of the world\u2019s premier game fishing destinations.<\/p>\n\n

But the island\u2019s newly appointed tourism co-ordinator, Nick Darby, is adamant there\u2019s much more to do.<\/p>\n\n

The roads on Groote Eylandt that don\u2019t lead to the mine (Groote Eylandt produces a quarter of the world\u2019s manganese) are all fiercely corrugated red dirt trails.<\/p>\n\n

But they lead to places Nick\u2019s only just discovering, often just days before I do (and where else on Earth does that happen?) He\u2019s excited today; he\u2019s taking me to an Aboriginal community on the other side of the island that he\u2019s only just received permission to bring travellers to; I\u2019ll be the very first guest there.<\/p>\n\n

Groote Eylandt may well teem with waterfalls and many-millennia-old cave paintings, but Nick\u2019s only just finding them.<\/p>\n\n

Here at Umbakumba Aboriginal community, a tiny outback village sits beside a sea the exact same shade of blue as the sky; it\u2019s so clear that I watch queen\u00a0fish jump, and tiny slivers of bait fish chased by God-knows-what. An eagle ray leaps clean out of the water as I sit cross-legged on a tiny concrete jetty savouring my morning tea.<\/p>\n\n

\u201cThere\u2019s a croc that likes to\u00a0sit out there on the reef line,\u201d Nick says, a reminder,\u00a0if I needed one, that the Territory is no place\u00a0for ocean swimmers.<\/p>\n\n

We bash back across the red dusty trail and cool down in the shade of stringy barks.<\/p>\n\n

I paddle in the clear, chilled waters of Leske Pools, watching blue-winged kingfishers flit from tree to tree. There could be death adders in the red sand beside me, but at least I\u2019m safe for now from saltwater crocs.<\/p>\n\n

Just around the corner, Nick surprises me with a picnic he\u2019s set up on a sand bar in a billabong. I sit in a plastic chair nibbling cheese and sipping wine as a goanna shoves a yabby that it has fished from the water slowly down its throat.<\/p>\n\n

There are Aboriginal cave paintings around these parts \u2013 plenty of them.<\/p>\n\n

Nick reckons maybe only 50 outsiders have ever seen the ones he\u2019s taking me to. They\u2019re reached via a winding trail through black snake country, which takes me high above the gum trees below.<\/p>\n\n

And there are many more sites yet on Groote Eylandt that will \u201cblow my mind\u201d, but I can\u2019t see them just yet. \u201cNo white man\u2019s ever seen some of them,\u201d he says \u2013 rock chasms, secret canyons, green waterholes. No one sees anything around here without permission from the locals.<\/p>\n\n

Back at the lodge, I walk next door to the Anindilyakwa Art Gallery where resident artist Alfred Lalara shows me a dash painting he\u2019s just finished. When I ask its meaning, he looks shyly at a woman perusing the artwork across the room. \u201cNot with her here,\u201d he says, so softly that I can barely hear him.<\/p>\n\n

Others sure don\u2019t mind telling me stories on Groote Eylandt. Like the one I\u2019ll hear most nights about the prawn trawler captain who fought the mackerel boat mob; then when he rowed his tender off to lick his wounds, he capsized and no one ever found his body. When we drive past Groote Eylandt\u2019s nine-hole golf course, Nick points at the second hole green.<\/p>\n\n

\u201cSee that,\u201d he says, pointing at players ready to putt. \u201cThey\u00a0don\u2019t know there\u2019s a big croc sitting below them looking up at them.\u201d The town here\u2019s not much more than a rough grid of red soil and strangely resilient green grass that constitutes a footy field. There are mango trees and a row of fragrant frangipani, about all that separates suburbia from the cruelty of the outback.<\/p>\n\n

In the evenings, I listen to the fishing mob warm up their tales, but when the light fades out entirely, I prefer the silence out here under the starriest skies I\u2019ve seen. Beaming planets shine down at me, tiny stars glint and blinking stars shoot across the entire sky so slowly I can look away and still catch them. I fight the urge to watch it all lying on my back on the beach beside me.<\/p>\n\n

I spend two more days on Groote Eylandt, but I long to go further into the Territory, beyond where any commercial airline can take me. In the Top End, if you really want to go bush, you\u2019re going to need your own plane. And in the Territory, no plane\u2019s more capable of getting you there than a Cessna 210.<\/p>\n\n

\u201cIt\u2019s the workhorse of the Territory,\u201d my pilot says, rubbing his\u00a0hand affectionately across the wing of the Cessna flying us to Davidson\u2019s Arnhemland Safaris\u2019 lodge from Darwin.<\/p>\n

\"Davidson's

The camp at Davidson’s Arnhem Land Safaris, NT<\/p><\/div>\n

The lodge is\u00a0built within a land belonging exclusively to the local Indigenous people, set on 700 square kilometres of sacred land exclusively leased from the Amurdak people of East Arnhem Land.<\/p>\n\n

East Arnhem Land is home to some the oldest peoples on Earth.\u00a0And this morning, they got even older.<\/p>\n\n

The paper I\u2019m reading says anthropologists have discovered that Aboriginal people have lived in East Arnhem Land for 18,000 years more than the 47,000 they\u2019d previously estimated: 65,000 years\u00a0of\u00a0continuous\u00a0occupation. Imagine.<\/p>\n\n

As we lift into the sky, keeping low over a landscape of red-brown sandstone escarpments, broken only by skinny, snaking rivers that flood come the wet season, making all I\u2019ll be\u00a0seeing totally unreachable, I try to comprehend thousands of\u00a0generations\u00a0of humans eking out a life down there below me.<\/p>\n

\"Davidson's

The private landing strip at Davidson\u2019s (photo: Sean Fennessey).<\/p><\/div>\n

Airports in East Arnhem Land come without security screening\u00a0or cafes. They\u2019re no more than a bumpy red track cut\u00a0between gum trees and barely wide enough for a plane to land\u00a0on.<\/p>\n\n

We\u2019re met by a bloke in a dusty LandCruiser, and driven\u00a0just around the\u00a0corner to the lodge.<\/p>\n\n

Davidson\u2019s Arnhemland \u00a0Safaris\u2019 eco-lodge is as luxurious as it gets this far east of Darwin, though luxury in the Territory comes without Jacuzzis or gold-plated bathroom vanities: five-star round here is\u00a0about exclusivity, and at Davidson\u2019s there\u2019s no one around you\u00a0for 200 kilometres in any direction.<\/p>\n

\"Safari

Safari vehicle Mount Borradaile, Arnhem Land, Northern Territory<\/p><\/div>\n

Locals have another measure for luxury in these parts too, it\u2019s how cold your beer is. The further into the Top End you go, the harder it is to keep your beer cold.<\/p>\n\n

The diesel they need to run the generator that keeps your drink chilled at Davidson\u2019s has to come from Darwin, five or so hours\u2019 drive down a dirt track through the bush. In the Wet, no truck\u2019s got a hope in hell of making it through.<\/p>\n

\"Davidson's

Ranger Luke Troup surrounded by thousands of years of rock art (photo: Sean Fennessy).<\/p><\/div>\n

Ranger Luke Troup sits me down at the bar, before I leave the relative safety of our compound. \u201cIf you walk off into the bush around here you tend to perish,\u201d he says slowly. \u201cAnd don\u2019t get too complacent, salties [saltwater crocs] will walk long distances across floodplains, mostly at night, so don\u2019t think fresh water in the Territory is safe.\u201d<\/p>\n\n

We traverse tracks among monsoonal rainforest and past paperbark swamps in the back of an old modified LandCruiser (no one trusts anything but a LandCruiser in the Territory) until we reach sandstone escarpment country. Here valleys, overhangs and caves have been occupied by the Amurdak people for tens of thousands of years.<\/p>\n\n

We climb a trail beneath a towering escarpment, until we reach an overhang on the cliff face. We squeeze through a tight gap while above us, an enormous serpent is painted at face level.<\/p>\n

\"Rock

Forms from beyond time forever marked in stone (photo: Sean Fennessy).<\/p><\/div>\n

\u201cThis one they reckon goes back 20,000 years,\u201d Luke says casually. \u201cI\u2019ve had people from all over the world studying rock art and they reckon the rock art here\u2019s better than anywhere. Lots of paintings round here, no anthropologist has ever seen. The Amurdak people don\u2019t want them to. We only find out what they want to tell you, and, mate, they don\u2019t tell you much.\u201d<\/p>\n\n

Among the flowering grevillea in the cracks between the rocks, where 100-year-old kentia palms manage to make the outback look tropical, there\u2019s an energy flowing right out of the earth. You don\u2019t have to be cosmic to sense it either, you just have to open your eyes: all around me white, ochre, yellow and red rock\u00a0drawings depict the last 50,000 years of human habitation on this planet.<\/p>\n\n

Later, when I\u2019ve let the heat drain from a Top End afternoon in the bar (bonding with local characters like veteran tour guide Seb Lord<\/a>, who tells me he \u201cwon\u2019t touch vegans\u201d when he\u2019s booking clientele), we take a slow boat ride up a creek lined by paperbarks, into a billabong dwarfed by towering escarpments.<\/p>\n

\"Mount

Cooper Creek at Mount Borradaile<\/p><\/div>\n

Cormorants and brahminy kites circle the heavens above, staying clear of the thousands of magpie geese who scramble off towards the sunset (40,000 gather here each September). Saltwater crocs lurk in the shallows, only their prehistoric heads show above the surface, set in permanent sneers, their rows of incisors warning enough for any creature to keep its distance.<\/p>\n\n

For the next three days I explore this place day and night; I\u2019ll hit a five-metre croc in a five-metre runabout in the shallows of a narrow creek entrance, riding the wash as it thrashes about in protest. I\u2019ll tiptoe through caves full of ancient bones, all that\u2019s left of the people who once lived here (\u201cthey\u2019ll be here till they break down to dust and go back to the earth,\u201d my guide tells me).<\/p>\n

\"Saltwater

Saltwater Croc at Mount Borradaile, Arnhem Land<\/p><\/div>\n

And in the quieter moments \u2013 afloat on a billabong with Champagne in hand as the colours of the sunset lend a delicacy to this place that makes me forget momentarily that I\u2019m surrounded by crocs twice as long as me \u2013 I realise that there\u2019s no limit to adventure in the Territory.<\/p>\n\n

If we view human existence in Australia as a single day, non-Indigenous people\u2019s time in Australia makes up a matter of minutes, whereas Indigenous people have been here since the crack of dawn. A visit to the Territory isn\u2019t about where you go, it\u2019s about the passage back through time you take \u2013 thousands and thousands of years \u2013 to the people who lived and died here so many times over, and the memory of them that lingers.<\/p>\n

Groote Eylandt and Davidson’s Arnhem Land Safari’s details<\/h2>\n

Getting there:\u00a0<\/strong>Qantas, Virgin and Jetstar fly to\u00a0Darwin from Brisbane, Sydney\u00a0and Melbourne. Airnorth<\/a> fly to Groote Eylandt from Darwin.<\/p>\n\n

Staying there:\u00a0<\/strong>Stay at Groote Eylandt Lodge<\/a> which can arrange all your tours, including cultural tours and fishing charters.<\/p>\n\n

All meals and tours are included at Davidson\u2019s ArnhemLand Lodge<\/a>. The lodge can also organise air transfers.<\/p>\n

For more information on Groote Eylandt, visit the Groote Eylandt section of the official Northern Territory website at northernterritory.com<\/a><\/span><\/strong><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

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Welcome to\u00a0Groote Eylandt. \u201cI reckon someone might\u2019ve gone through the fibre optics cable on their tractor.\u201d It serves me right, I suppose, […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":133,"featured_media":181704,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"article-deals.php","format":"standard","meta":{"_expiration-date-status":"","_expiration-date":0,"_expiration-date-type":"","_expiration-date-categories":[],"_expiration-date-options":[]},"categories":[1294],"tags":[1481,4599,6322,4479,4542,1394,4515,4748,5139,5715,4566,4539],"acf":[],"yoast_head":"\nGroote Eylandt: the island where they keep crocs as pets<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"Few people ever visit this remote island in the Gulf of Carpentaria off east Arnhem Land, but those that do find an extraordinary adventure.\" \/>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" 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